Waitrose food magazine recently nominated it their favourite foodie pub. Observer food monthly voted it ‘Best Sunday Lunch’ and in last weeks Sunday Times, a poll of the 100 best things to do this summer put lunch at The Crooked Billet, Stoke Row, Top Ten, surpassed only by celebrating the Queens birthday, fishing, gardening and swimming. Lunching with chef Paul Clerehugh deemed more popular than Madonna and Take That tickets, The World Cup, Wimbledon, Notting Hill Carnival and The Summer Ball in Berkeley Square. Dinner at world suprimo restaurant elBulli scoring a miserly No. 95 in the chart.
Paul Clerehugh is 40, lives on his smallholding rearing beef and sheep for the menu. He has run The Crooked Billet since 1990, previously he played guitar and worked with various bands including John Otway and Wild Willy Barret – but has always cooked.
A self taught chef, wanting his own restaurant, he approached the bank for a loan. With only punk rock guitar experience and no security against the loan, unsurprisingly the bank said no. Successfully negotiating a car loan with a second bank, he used the Porsche money to buy The Crooked Billet (unlike a restaurant lease, banks can repossess Porches). Choosing The Crooked Billet because it was the cheapest place on the market, run down with a tree growing through the floor and out through the ceiling, £500 weekly takings and no hot water etc.
Quickly establishing a reputation, Time Out’s ‘Best Out of London’ two consecutive years. Most of the food guides, although The Billet is chalk and cheese to Michelin, their inspectors wrote “the chairs look like £2.50 from a junk shop” (they are).
The Crooked Billet is Britain’s first Gastro Pub, pre-dating David Eyre and The Eagle, Farringdon Road by two years. However, it wasn’t until 1997 that Paul really hit the headlines when feeding bangers and mash to Kate Winslet's wedding guests. Front page news on every British paper.
In 2000 Paul opened a second restaurant, London Street Brasserie. A contemporary little oasis of friendly service and quality food, cooked and served with passion – in the heart of Reading. Immediately winning critical acclaim, voted restaurant of the year and Michelin recognition (Paul spent more than £2.50 on chairs)
Whilst London Street Brasserie serves more guests, turns over more money and makes more profit, it is The Crooked Billet that Paul loves and is famous for.
Today, The Crooked Billet retains the unspoilt rustic country charm that made it famous. A large and varied daily changing menu, specialising in local and British produce. Buffalo milk and honey ice-cream (there’s a Buffalo farm next door and Paul keeps bees), Beef, lamb, Hogget and mutton from Paul’s farm, good seasonal British seafood and a legendary annual lobster festival. A blackboard on the front door encourages guests to swap their home grown delicacies for lunch.
Paul even finds time to cook meals for his village school everyday; nutritionally nurturing the kids with his organic home grown delights. He is a consultant for the second series of Jamie Oliver’s School Dinners programme.
Recent famous faces Paul has cooked for include Tony and Cherie Blair, Rowan Atkinson, Michael Parkinson, Oasis, Joanna Lumley, Deep Purple, Jordan, Sir John Mortimer, Ringo Star, Bob Geldof, Chaz & Dave. Kate Winslet is still a fan; Paul’s 20% discount offer for wedding No. 2 was declined.
Legendary hospitality, rustic big flavours and the rough edges of Paul Clerehugh’s cooking, have earnt him an enviable reputation. He deserves his success, gaining it the hard way, not through Ready Steady Cook or publishing but through great food.
The Crooked Billet is a finalist on Local Food Hero, the TV series championing British Food. Paul is a presenter on Mind Your Own Business (BBC1) a series helping ailing businesses. Paul occasionally cooks on Great Food Live (UKTV Food)
Antony Worrall Thompson, Mike Robinson and Marco Pierre White all recently opened close to The Crooked Billet, all crediting Paul for their desire to have a foodie pub.
Paul Clerehugh is the second pub chef ever to win the highly coveted Craft Guild of Chefs award. Previous winners include Paul Gayler, Brian Turner, Anton Mosimann and Raymond Blanc.
The London St. brasserie is open all day every day from 12.00 noon. Bookings are sensible - 01189 505036. |